Living in New Zealand: Walking the Banks Peninsula Track
As my 50th approached, I knew I didn't want a party (too many of my friends and family are too far away) and I didn't want to go too far from home. I love being in nature and near the beach, so the boyf treated the two of us to the Banks Peninsula Track: a great three day walk, with someone else carrying our bags for a change.
The track is almost on our doorstep, starting in Onuku, not far from Akaroa. I had expected the walk to be like those around the Port Hills – mostly grazing land, with tiny pockets of remnant bush. But it was a lot more varied. I lost count of the plants I didn't recognise (and will need to look them up in my new book, thanks Mum!).
And there were so many birds in the valleys of dense native bush – kereru, bellbirds, grey warblers and wax eyes.
Kereru - the NZ native pigeon
We walked past (and through) numerous waterfalls in the valley leading to Flea Bay.
Thanks to my sister's voice in my head, I had to swim in the one signposted
It was bloody freezing.
The sea in Flea Bay was nearly as cold, but at least the southerly held off on the morning of my birthday as we made our way to Stony Bay. Ten minutes away from our accommodation, the threatening storm crashed in with rain and hail. We were sheltered by the kanuka woods and made it to the huts without getting too wet (or worse). The Germans behind us were not so fortunate.
They hid in that loo until the storm passed. Luckily it wasn't struck by lightning, as I'm not sure a tin toilet is the best place to be in that situation.
The accommodation on this private walk was a level above what we are used to on normal tramps. Not only were there gas cookers, fridges and electric lights, but there were hot showers! And Stony Bay also had baths of a very Kiwi kind.
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It was an amazing way to wind down after the walk. We then had a curry and some wine and sat around the campfire to talk to our fellow walkers.
My camera doesn’t take great photos in the dark
Guess where the boundary of Hinewai Reserve is…
The last day of the track goes through the Hinewai reserve (managed by the legendary Hugh Wilson (check out the gallery at the bottom of the page for some of his fabulous hand-lettered signs), who is featured in the little documentary Fools and Dreamers, which you can watch on YouTube).
We walked up through native bush, peppered with tree ferns. This gives way to beech forest, before opening out onto gorse on the tops of the hills. There you have fantastic views of the final destination of Akaroa Harbour.
It was lovely to get back to the Land Rover, but I’d do the walk again tomorrow if I could.
More photos:
Living in New Zealand: Lyttelton's Dry Dock
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We went on a tour of Lyttelton’s dry dock recently. It was fascinating, as much of it dates back to the 19th century and survived the 21st-century earthquake.
Old chainsaws
They’ve only recently replaced the pumps
Victorian brickwork
I was really happy to find out that they treat the water that comes out of the dry dock after cleaning and painting the boats. The room where they do this looks very Heath Robinson, but it does the job so well that the pollutant levels are lower then permitted leaving the sewage works in Bromley.
Cleaning these grates is a nasty job, as young crabs get in and enjoy living in the space, but then get too big to get out…
New Zealand Garden Diary: Bees and Broad Beans
I love watching the bees do their work around the garden. Especially in the broad bean bed.
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New Zealand Garden Diary: It's Spring and the Birds are Busy
The birds are very busy in Lyttelton at the moment. I saw a pair of kingfishers on a fence by the Bridle Path this week, the grey warblers are singing their little hearts out and the skies are a superhighway of sparrows.
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Blackbirds are one of the many non-native species introduced to New Zealand by (homesick? crazy?) Brits a hundred or so years ago. They do very well here and they drive me crazy as they mess up garden beds and disturb seedlings looking for earthworms, etc. But I guess they have got just as much right to be here as me.